Once a playground for a (very) young Emperor Franz Joseph I, now a coffee house and small-scale restaurant for the common people: Landtmann’s Jausen Station is a hidden delight in the park surrounding Schönbrunn Palace, a glade of tranquillity just a few steps away from the hustle and bustle of Vienna’s busiest tourist attraction.
I don’t normally write about places to eat or drink, since there are websites that specialise in exactly that. But I’m making an exception for the Jausen Station because I like it (and it’s becoming my go-to place for writing my novels).
High-quality small meals, snacks and drinks with an imaginative menu, in a quiet location with excellent service and a classic 1920s feel. Particularly good for a late breakfast.
Service and ambience
My wife and I went half expecting the black-clad gentlemen that sometimes haunt Vienna’s coffee houses with their unparalleled ability to be polite, friendly and condescending all at the same time. But no – the staff were friendly, youthful, very quick, and dressed in more informal “country” attire.
The ambience is curiously delightful. You’re in the middle of the grounds of the Habsburg summer palace, but you wouldn’t necessarily know it. The house and seating areas are ringed by tall hedges on one side and a lengthy grassed area bounded by trees on the other.
If that sounds unspectacular it’s not meant to be. Therein lies its charm – just a few metres away, vast swathes of tourists wander the palace and its immediate environs. Yet here you are in a secluded glade, enjoying the sun or shade as you prefer.
You can’t help but relax. We arrived on a Sunday morning in May and found a seat with relative ease, but perhaps it gets busier in the peak summer months.
The decor is simple; white chairs and light wooden tables inside, pastel fold away chairs outside. We couldn’t decide what it all reminded us of, but settled on the 1920s. Let’s just say historical, without being too historical. What’s nice is you don’t see any ugly branded glasses or parasols – hence the classic flair.
Food and drink
It’s not cheap, but not excessively expensive, either. There’s a wide range of food and drink, matching traditional selections with imaginative alternatives. Perfect for breakfast and afternoon snacks. And all quite beautifully presented. So you can get your sausages and cappuccino, but also lentil curry and homemade lemonades.
Now let’s talk cakes.
The Jausen Station is run by the same family that manages several famous coffee houses in Vienna (including Café Landtmann opposite the Rathaus city hall). The group has its own patisserie producing the kinds of cakes Vienna is famous for. So you face the eternal dilemma…do you take a healthy vegan, organic option, or do you pig out on a killer cake?
Only you can decide.
Good to know
My kids are grown up now, but it seems very family friendly, perhaps echoing the building’s origins in the early 1800s as a pavilion for the young Habsburg boys to play and exercise in.
There’s a “parking space” for prams, a microwave for warming milk, an outdoor baby changing table, and a kiddy’s play area off to one side. Oh, and a deck chair-strewn glade for “older kiddies” to forget the stress of modern life and regress into the optimism of more innocent times.
NB: Since it’s embedded in the Schönbrunn park it doesn’t stay open ’til late, closing at 8.30 pm (at the time of writing).
How to get there
Follow the directions for Schönbrunn. Landtmann’s Jausen Station is about 200m off to the right as you face the rear of the palace, “hidden away” among the trees. You can also reach it from the eastern side of the park where the Schönbrunn subway station is. See the map below for details…
Address: Landtmann’s Jausen Station, Schönbrunner Schlosspark (Kronprinzengarten), 1130 Vienna | Website