“As the birdcatcher I am known by old and young throughout the land.”
The words are sung by Papageno, a main character in Mozart’s 1791 opera, The Magic Flute. And the Papagenotor is a gateway that pays due respect to the role and, more particularly, the librettist who wrote the words above…Emanuel Schikaneder.
- Old main entrance to the Theater an der Wien
- Sculpted figures feature Papageno and the child spirits from The Magic Flute
- See also: Mozart location guide | Opera in Vienna
Background
Papageno accompanies the “hero” of the tale, Tamino, as they attempt to free Pamina, daughter of the Queen of the Night, from the clutches of Sarastro.
The two men undergo various trials, which Tamino masters. Papageno is somewhat more fallible, falling somewhere between hero and loser (like nearly all of us). Here’s the scene where he first sees the true form of Papagena, his love interest in the opera:
Emanuel Schikaneder wrote the libretto for Mozart and also played Papageno at the premiere. It was a role he would become closely associated with.
Schikaneder went on to found the Theater an der Wien, which opened in 1801. The Papagenotor (English: “Papageno Gate”) is the old main entrance and is so-called for the collection of sandstone statues mounted above in a nod to Schikaneder.
In the pictured scene, Papageno sits with his flute, cloaked in feathers and next to a small birdcage. The three child spirits who guide and help him and Tamino throughout the opera surround him. Schikaneder’s niece, Anna, played one of the children at the premiere.
The double eagle coat of arms above the gate and the inscription F. II. refer to Francis II, Holy Roman Emperor and ruler of the Habsburg lands at the time.
The Theater an der Wien has a chequered history but is still going strong as the oldest of Vienna’s three great opera houses. Beethoven even lived in it briefly. Indeed, the Papagenotor sits opposite Hotel Beethoven and Papagenogasse, the latter took its name from the famous theatre entrance in 1876.
How to get to the Papagenotor
It’s quite central, close to both the Secession building and Naschmarkt open market.
Subway: It’s a short walk from the Museumsquartier station (line U2) or Karlsplatz station (lines U1, U2 and U4).
Bus: Line 59A (get off at Bärenmühldurchgang) or line 57A (get off at Getreidemarkt). Both stops are around 5 minutes walk away.
Address: The intersection of Millöckergasse/Papagenogasse, 1030 Vienna