Another month that feels like the young boy staring forlornly through the sweet shop window while December and August get to choose all the nice things. But November in Vienna has its own pleasures.
In particular, you get to enjoy the Christmas flair, but without quite so many crowds.
Activities for November 2021
Here are a few suggested activities and events specific to November.
(In writing this, I assume we’re past any COVID-related problems. If not, expect at least some activities to become impossible: check with official sites nearer the time.)
Christmas markets and lights
Call me fussy, but the Christmas season seems like it really ought to happen in December. However, the preparations and celebrations start much earlier in Vienna.
The city tends to switch on the official Christmas lights sometime in the second half of November, though the date rarely gets confirmed too far in advance. And they’re fantastic – very classy, especially the white chandelier-style displays in the very centre of town.
Although the genuine advent atmosphere does indeed come in December, it’s not a bad idea to pop into those markets before then. They get very (very) busy close to Christmas, so a November visit means you have more space to enjoy the cooked and crafted delights (of which there are many).
Also, November typically offers a couple of bonus markets that leave December feeling a little jealous. Both usually take place at the end of November:
- So schmeckt NÖ Adventmarkt in Palais Niederösterreich, a rare chance to see inside this 16th-century architectural joy (2021 dates: TBA)
See the stars
November offers a big opportunity for those who favour the geekier side of cinema, comics and/or cosplay. Vienna Comic Con (November 20th and 21st) is my favourite event of the year (that’s me above). Sean Astin, for example, appeared last time out; Christopher Lambert, Anna Shaffer and Donny Cates have already signed up for this year’s event.
(The Kunsthistorisches Museum has a special Titian exhibition in November 2021)
With all its art museums, Vienna hosts numerous exhibitions at any one time. But, now and then, a couple stand out from the crowd. And the top exhibitions tend to appear later in the year.
Provisional plans for November 2021 include these delights:
- The Titian exhibition at the Kunsthistorisches Museum explores the portrayal of women in his works and those of his contemporaries
- The Modigliani – Picasso exhibition at the Albertina means a first retrospective for Modigliani in Austria
- An exhibition of works by Dürer and his peers at Belvedere takes us back into the late Gothic and early Renaissance
- A detailed retrospective for the legendary photographer Susan Meiselas pops up at the Kunst Haus Wien
- Talking legendary: the Bank Austria Kunstforum Wien honours the work of Rebecca Horn
- The Albertina Modern examines Schiele’s influence on self-portraiture in art with the Egon Schiele and his Legacy exhibition
- Treasures from the Forbidden City roll into the Weltmuseum Wien with items that date as far back as the Ming dynasty
- Apropos forbidden: the Wien Museum MUSA takes a look at art policy under the Nazis
- And not every exhibition has to be art-related. The Natural History Museum’s Kinosaurier exhibition, for example, looks at dinosaurs at the movies. I’m going to go out on a limb and suggest the words Jurassic and Park may feature somewhere
Bonus: the Photo+Adventure fair and festival (postponed to October 2022, unfortunately) is big on travel photography, for example, which means lots of photo exhibitions from top photographers covering various locations and/or themes.
(Ottakringer brewery, host of Fesch’Markt Wien)
The Christmas markets include a great deal of unique craft items, and the theme of crafted beauty continues at three other events:
- The Art&Antique fair at the Hofburg palace (November 4th – 8th) brings together around 50 Austrian and international art dealers and galleries. A chance to view (and acquire) everything from the latest contemporary designs to works from antiquity
- Fesch means handsome or pretty in German, and the Fesch’Markt Wien (November 12th to 14th) at the city’s largest brewery showcases the creations of dozens of independent design talents across a host of categories: from food to fashion and furniture
- The Weihnachtsquartier (November 26th to 28th) opens its doors for three days of art and design from independents
- The “Presse”-SCHAU fair (November 5th to 7th) covers design and lifestyle themes including watches and jewelry, travel, mobility, crafts, and more
Classical music with a difference
Vienna is the home of classical music, with concerts everywhere. But among the pieces by Beethoven, Mozart and their ilk is a thriving modern scene.
The Wien Modern festival (October 30th to November 30th) highlights the work of contemporary composers and performers. Some of the world’s top orchestras participate.
Finally…roast chestnuts and beer
As the temperatures fall so the Maronistands rise up like mushrooms, peppering the city with their little huts and heated ovens. This is your chance to travel back in time for some original fast food – roasted chestnuts.
And beer lovers should find their way to the Marx Halle for the Craft Beer Festival (2021 dates TBA), when dozens of breweries offer up their wares for the discerning consumer of the amber nectar.
Bon Appetit, as they don’t say in Vienna (try Mahlzeit or Guten Appetit).