Christmas lights: where to see them

Since the city has a certain image to maintain, Vienna’s Christmas lights tend not to feature too many dancing Santas or reindeer with biologically-inaccurate red noses.

Expect crystal chains and central European understatement…with a few million LEDs thrown in for effect. The result is rather pretty.

• Stylish light displays with a classic, timeless feel to them
• The main lights start sometime in mid-November and come down in early January
• Three areas to look for: the pedestrianised centre, around the Ring boulevard, and the Rathauspark
• See also:
  • Christmas in Vienna

Here are my top three recommendations for experiencing the usual annual displays; see also the map at the bottom of the page.

1. The city centre lights

(Kohlmarkt in the early evening)

The pedestrianised zones in the centre sparkle with the glitter of nearly a million diamonds LED lamps.

Stroll beneath giant chandeliers or shimmering cascades of light, pausing only for a roast chestnut or three (or a mug of Glühwein). The lights normally go on for around seven hours a day between dusk and late evening.

Start at Michaelerplatz, then stroll down Kohlmarkt beneath sheets of white lights to reach the Graben.

(Lights on the Graben)

Take a right turn and walk along the Graben beneath its giant chandeliers containing around 200,000 LEDs.

(These create a suitably ballroom-like atmosphere for New Year’s Eve, when open-air waltz lessons often take place on the street.)

(The Haas Haus)

Once you reach Stephansplatz, look across to the cathedral and the surrounding Christmas market. Then look up to see the Haas Haus and its illuminated façade.

(The Kärntner Straße displays)

From Stephansplatz, head toward the opera house along Kärntner Straße and its hanging chains of lights. Around 550,000 LEDs and 48km of crystals create the effect.

Alternatively, go the opposite way past Stephansdom to Rotenturmstrasse where a change of colour (to red) and style (more modern) awaits.

Wherever you are in the Graben area, always check the side streets for more lights.

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2. The Ring lights

Take a walk around the southern and western side of the giant Ring after sundown. You’ll pass a couple of market displays, plus many big luxury hotels with their Christmas lights. The road itself has a few lighted areas, too.

It’s a bit of an outlier, but the southeast corner of the Ring has the Ringturm office block (opposite Schottenring subway station).

This tower normally features a giant Christmas tree all up one side and snowflakes cascading down its face.

An alternative to walking is to take the latest possible ride on the Ring tram year-round sightseeing tram.

Two special tram services that travel around the Ring operated in the past (though not during the last couple of years for obvious reasons). Check locally to see if they’re running again during advent.

• The Ströck Weihnachtsbim (seasonal tram raising money for charity, but )
• The Manner tram (a pink-flavoured seasonal tram)

3. Rathauspark

If you’re going to the Christkindlmarkt at the Rathaus, explore the surrounding park on either side of the market itself.

Discover illuminated trails, light displays in the trees, and much more. You might bump into a carousel or a nativity display. Look for the giant glowing balls on the ground, too.

(I can never get a photo that does the tree justice)

The tree full of glowing red hearts is probably the local favourite. They even set up a selfie stand for couples wishing to get a photo with the tree as a romantic backdrop.

P.S. For a more subtle, but truly awe-inspiring display, stand on the south side of the lake at Belvedere Palace at dusk and look across to the Christmas market. More info here.