Weihnachtsdorf on Maria-Theresien-Platz

If you like your Christmas markets sandwiched between mighty imperial buildings, then Maria-Theresien-Platz is another must on your list.

• Wonderful location between two grand museums
• Very tasteful lighting amongst the topiary and fountains
• Best seen after dark (um, obviously)
• Excellent selection of arts, crafts, and food stalls
• 2022 dates: Nov 16 – Dec 26
• See also:
  • Christmas markets
  • Vienna in December

The market itself

The setting is, of course, fantastic. This is Vienna at its best:

The Maria-Theresien-Platz square has the monumental 19th-century Art History Museum on one side and the latter’s twin (the Natural History Museum) on the other.

Which means you can feast on strudel and sausages, view the Feast of Venus by Rubens, then discover how our ancestors coped when the giant animals of prehistory objected to being turned into meat products.

After all that science and culture you might need a bracing drink (also available from the Christmas market).

As well as the two museums, the square borders the Ring, beyond which lie the giant Heldentor gates and the Hofburg palace. The square’s other side leads to the main entrance to the Museumsquartier.

And if that wasn’t enough, the market huts curl their way around beautifully-lit fountains, topiary, and the 1888 monument to Empress Maria Theresa.

So eat your chocolate-coated fruit below the alert gaze of the lady who famously said:

While other nations do battle, you lucky Austria, you wed.

(The Empress had 16 children to exploit for her peace-through-marriage policies.)

The quality of the stands is, as usual for Vienna, high. In fact, the only stand I have ever seen there that looked vaguely like it sold plastic toys turned out to be from the Natural History Museum. So we can accept that, given the location and importance to kids.

You’ll find all the usual Christmas market goodies, of course, plus a few extras, as the location is one of the largest.

On my last visit, for example, one stand sold absolutely exquisite wooden models that looked as intricate as the insides of a watch, while a chocolate booth offered a host of special varieties that included organic selections from Zotter (a favourite chocolate supplier).

Another stand sold traditional snow globes, notable because the first patent issued for a snow globe was to a Viennese surgical instrument manufacturer. The family-run business still makes the globes today and often pops up at different markets.

Some tips:

• Unlike many markets, the Maria-Theresien-Platz usually has a temporary toilet facility

• This is definitely one that looks best after dusk, with the closed-off fountains on the square decked out in Christmas lights, both museums lit up, and a ghostly Empress watching over it all

• The end nearest the Natural History Museum typically has the highest density of food and drink stalls. The end nearest the Kunsthistorisches Museum usually includes some covered areas with bar tables, just in case it rains or snows

• This is one of the few markets where you can take reasonable photos from above: climb the steps leading up to either museum or go up to the top of the small slope at the MQ side of the square

Opening hours 2022

The planned 2022 dates are November 16th to December 26th with the following opening hours:

• 11am to 9pm (Sun to Thurs)
• 11am to 10pm (Fri and Sat)
• Closed earlier on December 24th (4pm), 25th (7pm) and 26th (7pm)

How to get to the square

Subway: Take the U2 or U3 line to Volkstheater or the U2 to Museumsquartier, then a short walk

Tram: The D, 71, 46, 49, 1 or 2 lines all stop at Ring/Volkstheater (requires a short walk)

Bus: Take the 48A to Ring/Volkstheater

If you’re still up for more after visiting the Weihnachtsdorf, you have two close options:

• The huge Christkindlmarkt sits a bit further along the ring boulevard (clockwise on a map).

• Alternatively, if you want to enjoy a Christmas market without too much of the Christmas bit (or much of the market bit, frankly), then wander up to the MuseumsQuartier (MQ) for their Wintergarten event.

The MQ also has the Libelle viewing platform, which might offer a rather fine view down over the Weihnachtsdorf.

Address: Weihnachtsdorf Maria-Theresien-Platz, 1010 Vienna | Website