Not every Christmas market in Vienna stands in imperial surrounds with multilingual menu boards and nearby bus parking. One or two spruce up the outer districts. And they offer some surprising delights. Like the Weihnachtszauber at Ottakringer Brewery.
- Small permanent market and specialist weekend markets
- Also a chance to sample the brewery’s best beverages
- Music and curling, too
- 2023 dates: Thursdays to Sundays from Nov 23
- See also:
Indoor and outdoor
(Moments before opening time)
Drop into Vienna’s outer districts, away from tourist trails, and you find one or two local Christmas markets.
The Hirschstetten alternative, for example, in the 22nd district has some 50 booths and its lovely Christmas exhibition demonstrates the floral art and skills of the Viennese park authorities.
In the 16th district, the Weihnachtszauber contains a small Christmas market, a plethora of beer, bonus entertainments, and special indoor markets at the weekends.
The beer comes courtesy of the host; the Weihnachtszauber occupies the forecourt of Ottakringer brewery.
This private brewery, founded in 1837, contributes far more to city life than just its (fine) beverages, which include a craft beer line. It also hosts various events throughout the year, not least a summer beer festival.
The Christmas event has a couple of dozen outdoor booths (with some covered areas) offering a small selection of seasonal market wares.
The quality impressed us on our visit: no junk here. And quite a variety despite the limited number of booths: we found everything from Mongolian wool products to handmade arm bands and regional spreads and chutneys.
The lovely handmade snagy bean bags for kids almost made me wish I had young children again. Almost. (Happy times, but if you can get your toddlers clothed for an Austrian winter excursion without swearing, then you’re a better parent than me.)
Anyway, additional entertainment came in the form of a little ride and slide for those very same toddlers, occasional musical performances, and a curling area you could rent.
Weekends in 2022 saw the adjoining event hall fill with a bonus market. On our visit, it was the Xmas edition of the excellent Vinyl and Market festival, and other dates included marketplaces for baby products, handmade arts and crafts, or secondhand and vintage items.
Any indoor markets in 2023 might make a worthy trip on their own, even without the prospect outside of a cheeky glass or two of Ottakringer’s Helles beer or a warming punch followed by waffles and sausages (possibly not together).
Opening times
I don’t have complete 2023 dates yet, but the 2023 Weihnachtszauber opens provisionally from November 23rd (Thursdays to Sundays). Opening times are:
- 3pm to 9pm (Thursdays and Fridays)
- midday to 9pm (Saturdays)
- midday to 7pm (Sundays)
How to get to the brewery
As with most of Vienna, reaching the 16th district and the brewery is a relatively swift journey.
The last stop on the U3 subway line is Ottakring. Trains leave, for example, from Stephansplatz in the centre.
From the subway station, walk back toward the centre along Ottakringer Straße. Alternatively, jump on the 44 tram for three stops to Johann-Nepomuk-Berger-Platz (outside the brewery). Or take the 46 tram for two stops to Feßtgasse and walk up the same-named street to the brewery.
The Johann-Nepomuk-Berger-Platz tram stop also serves the 9 and 2 trams. Both the 44 (from Schottentor) and 2 (from several stops along the west side of the Ring boulevard) leave from the centre.
Address: Ottakringer Platz 1, 1160 Vienna | Website