Just what is the city like at different times of the year? Here’s my view on the best time to visit Vienna…
- Short summary: it’s pretty great any time of year, frankly
- Winter has pros and cons
- Christmas markets!
- But weather can turn grim
- Summer is great
- Vienna looks wonderful in the sun
- Enjoy the street café culture
- Outside summer and Advent has one major plus
- Fewer other tourists around
- Book a concert experience* for your trip
- See also:
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Winter: December to February
(See what to do in December, January & February)
(View of the Christmas market on Maria-Theresien-Platz)
Winter is my favorite season in the city. If Vienna was a ski resort, the decision would be easy to understand. But it isn’t. So some explanation is in order.
You probably have some image in your mind about a fairytale Christmas.
Snow on the ground, crisp night air, groups of friends half-hidden in the steam rising from mugs of hot mulled wine, roast chestnuts, and the kind of Christmas decorations we used to have before we discovered plastic and fluorescent lighting.
That’s Vienna in winter (not always with snow, admittedly).
It can get cold; it’s not impossible to get down to below 0 degrees centigrade (32 degrees Fahrenheit) on some days. Snow on the roads soon turns to brown slush. And if you’ve any kind of profile on your shoes and boots, you can end up picking bits of grit out of them for days.
But it’s all worth it when the sun goes down and you wind your way through one of the Christmas markets.
(Enjoy a mug of something warming at the Christmas markets)
Christmas in Vienna has taste. And I include the lights in that assessment.
Soft lighting, decorations made of wood and straw. You know those wintry Victorian scenes you get on the side of old biscuit tins? Exactly.
If you only visit Vienna once, and you’re not averse to a bit of a chill in the air, then visit when the Christmas markets are on. That means mid-November until late December (and often a few days beyond).
As an additional bonus, the major museums often save their best art exhibitions for late autumn and the Christmas period.
Eagle-eyed readers will, however, note the obvious downside to the season: winter extends beyond the Christmas market period.
January and February have the cold without the consolation of those markets (and fewer events all told). So post-Christmas winter skies can dampen your sightseeing enthusiasm.
The coffee houses come into their own here, though, offering warmth (and cake) for weary travellers. And, importantly, less people means far more time and space at the most popular attractions.
Summer: June to August
(See what to do in June, July & August)
(Summer ride at the Prater outdoor entertainment complex)
One advantage of the summer is that large proportions of the local population disappear to summer residences or vacations, leaving more room for those who stay.
The disadvantage is that the migrating locals pass thousands of tourists coming the other way: popular tourist destinations can get very busy.
Apart from the good weather, the summer also brings the street culture to life.
Sit outside into the late evening enjoying the delights of the numerous excellent cafés, bars, restaurants, and Heuriger (wine taverns). Many have their own gardens just for that purpose.
The city even has its own beach bars: try the riverside locations along the Donaukanal, for example. Or enjoy the open-air bars, restaurants (and lidos) around the giant Alte Donau lake.
(Das Bootshaus lakeside restaurant)
Vienna’s municipal authorities also do a fantastic job of brightening up the city with flowers, and not just in parks and gardens either. Many roadsides burst with floral colour.
Summer brings out the ice cream sellers too. And we’re not talking little vans and plastic-tasting ice cream here.
Italian ice cream makers spend the winter back home in Italy before opening up to the Viennese public in the warmer months. A good tip for the city center is Zanoni (actually open for all but a few weeks of the year: walk along Rotenturmstraße from Stephansdom cathedral).
The main square in front of the Rathaus also turns into a gourmet street food market and outdoor cinema for most of July and August.
The rest of the year
(See what to do in March, April, May, September, October, November)
(The Neue Burg in March. Grey skies, but few people)
There’s nothing inherently bad about Vienna in the spring and fall/autumn, but not a lot to make it stand out against the glories of Advent or summer.
One big benefit is (as with January and February) that fewer tourists appear at these times, which makes finding a place to stay easier.
Since most sites stay open year-round, visiting the top attractions also involves less jostling than at other times of the year. As Vienna grows in popularity, this is quite an advantage.
Each month also has its own bonus:
- March / April have the spring exhibitions, which have been quite excellent in recent years, and the Easter period with its seasonal markets (though the Easter holidays can get busy)
- May and September have the most festivals and other events, hoping to attract the locals before or after the summer holidays
- October and early November usually see the major year-end art exhibitions in full flow in anticipation of warmth-seeking crowds and the Christmas influx of visitors (but the latter haven’t turned up yet, since the markets only open mid-November. This leaves more space to admire the works on display)
More help with timing
For further help with planning your trip, check out two other pages:
- Events by month: this covers the bigger annual events and festivals. Perhaps there’s something specific that grabs your attention?
- Exhibition schedules: current and future exhibitions in the main museums (and many smaller ones), covering art, design & architecture, photography, history, culture & current affairs, science, nature, and music.