Vienna’s most popular tourist sight is the magnificent Schönbrunn Palace. But what should you do at the home of Emperors and Empresses with its gardens and park?
1. Go early for photos
(Schloß Schönbrunn, Wien – Early-morning view of Schönbrunn palace looking down from the Gloriette)
The Schönbrunn ticket office and staterooms normally open during conventional working hours. However, the grounds and gardens open from 6.30am and require no ticket: you can wander around most of it for free.
An early start gives you plenty of time to take photos with nobody but the occasional jogger to spoil the view of the palace exterior, landscaped gardens and other features.
I took the above snap at around 7.10am with just one person in sight. Shame about the overcast sky, but you can’t have everything
Talking of photos…
2. Go behind the main fountain
(Schloß Schönbrunn, Wien – The Neptune fountain
The giant Neptunbrunnen fountain dominates the opposite side of the main gardens to the palace. Behind it rises a hill topped by the Gloriette triumphal arches (see Tip 5 below).
Go up the slope around either side of the fountain and track back behind the monument. Peep through the cave or over the retaining wall for fabulous views of the palace and grounds and an excellent photo opportunity.
3. Take the Grand palace tour
(Schönbrunn Palace, Vieux-Laque room © Schloß Schönbrunn Kultur- und Betriebsges.m.b.H. – Alexander Eugen Koller)
Nice as the surrounding sights and gardens are (more on that below), if you’re going to go to Schönbrunn Palace then you really ought to go inside Schönbrunn Palace.
You see much more for relatively little extra cost, including such joys as the stunning black and gold Vieux Laque Room, the Millions Room with its precious rosewood panels, and Empress Maria Theresa’s bed of state.
(Yep, the Empress had a special bed for ceremonial purposes. IKEA and co have missed a trick there.)
4. Take in a concert
(A spring party on a winter’s day in the Schönbrunn Orangerie on Feb 6th, 1785; Wien Museum Inv.-Nr. 179092, published by Johann Hieronymus Löschenkohl; reproduced with permission under the terms of the CC0 licence)
One of the many things Vienna does well is embed activites in wonderful, historical surroundings.
5. Climb the Gloriette
(Schloß Schönbrunn, Wien – The Gloriette rooftop gives you views across Vienna)
They reckon they built the Gloriette to give the Empress something nice to look at out of her palace windows.
Equally, the location itself offers some particularly spectacular views. It already sits on top of a hill facing the palace, but consider climbing up to its rooftop viewing terrace (though that requires a ticket).
Once on the roof, enjoy one of the best views of the Schönbrunn complex and the wider city: look over to Vienna’s centre and Stephansdom cathedral, out to the hills in the west, across to the Danube City, and elsewhere.
6. Plan for the markets
(Weihnachtsmarkt Schloß Schönbrunn © www.weihnachtsmarkt.co.at; Photo: Andreas Tischler)
Place an arts and crafts market in the courtyard of Schönbrunn Palace, and you’re on to a good thing.
But don’t leave it at that.
Make sure the stands are high quality. Throw in food and drink stalls selling traditional Austrian fare. And give it all a seasonal touch.
The Christmas and New Year markets run from late November to early January; the Easter market opens in the two or three weeks leading up to Easter Monday.
7. Go late for photos, too
(Schönbrunn Christmas market seen at night from the main entrance)
The early morning light across the Schönbrunn gardens has a certain flair to it, especially when all is quiet.
However, there’s something equally special about the palace lit up at night, though lighting may be curtailed in the current times as energy-saving initiatives spread throughout Vienna.
Even if the park and gates are closed, you can get pretty impressive photos from the road outside the main entrance, particularly at Christmas when the seasonal market fills the courtyard (see the photo above).
8. See a panda bear
(The highlight of the zoo)
As someone with a biology degree, I’m all for objectivity when it comes to the animal world. But…pandas! Cute, furry and capable of poor choices when it comes to modern evolutionary survival strategies.
The park at Schönbrunn also houses Tiergarten Schönbrunn, the oldest working zoo in the world and one of the best, too.
The zoo covers a huge area with all sorts of indoor and outdoor attractions that include a two-storey rainforest house, aquarium, big cats, and all the other usual animal suspects.
Did I mention they have giant pandas?
9. Just walk around
(Schloß Schönbrunn, Wien – the main gardens in early spring)
Unless you’re on a tight schedule, take your time to wander around the park away from the hotspots like the palace or Gloriette.
The extensive landscaped grounds and parkland hide many pleasant surprises…
A fountain here, a rose garden there.
A tree-lined avenue with a glorious view of the palace at its end. (As seen, for example, in the movie Corsage.)
A café the Viennese like to keep a secret from visitors.
A red squirrel or three.
A little nook or cranny for hushed conversations with loved ones away from governesses and chaperones (I’ve been writing too much historical fiction).
In particular, don’t forget to…
10. Cross to the west
(Schloß Schönbrunn, Privy Garden © Schloß Schönbrunn Kultur- und Betriebsges.m.b.H., Foto: Alexander Eugen Koller)
Most people assume the trim, patterned flower beds next to the palace form the extent of the landscaped parts of the Schönbrunn complex.
You can pay a little extra and visit the Privy Garden for more flower-based colour and geometric designs.
Or walk west from the palace all the way to the outer limits of the park and up around the back of the zoo.
This route takes you through the Kammergarten, across to the topiary and flower beds next to the huge palm house (a historic iron and glass construction that looks wonderful on photos), then on through a lovely botanic garden.
Many people don’t find their way to these places, so it’s generally quieter than elsewhere.
(Of course there’s plenty more to Schönbrunn than these ten tips. Take a look at the overview page for information on all the sights and activities.)