The Belvedere complex is famous for the gardens connecting the upper and lower palaces: sculpted hedges and cascading waters that scream “Baroque prince with money”.
But the west wing of Lower Belvedere and the Orangery offer access to another garden – the Kammergarten (privy garden).
- Part of the Lower Belvedere complex
- Small Baroque garden where you can hide from the crowds
- Great for an 18th-century feeling and views of the Orangerie
- May host open-air cinema in August
- See also:
- Book tickets online* for Lower Belvedere
The privy garden
(The Privy Garden in October)
The Kammergarten consists of a long, private garden hidden away behind high walls, hedges and decorative gates.
The aviaries, pavilions and pergolas that provided private amusement for Prince Eugene and honored guests are largely gone. But you might still pop in for three particular reasons.
First, few people visiting Belvedere find their way to the Kammergarten, so you can gain a little respite from the crowds if it’s a busy time of year. I once found myself there entirely on my own on a July Saturday morning.
Second, the Bundesgärten (Federal Gardens) and visiting artists do a grand job of maintaining the garden, often in the form of an outdoor exhibition.
A lot depends on the timing of your visit, though. I’ve been there in late May and seen only empty flower beds.
If you’re in luck, though, the gardens turn into a flower and shrub-filled delight with the odd fountain or two gurgling along for good measure.
Finally, your third reason for visiting…
Find your way right to the very back and the former location of a Baroque aviary. You should come across a secluded area hemmed in by tall hedges. Stand in the right place, and all you can see around you are:
- To the west, the tops of the trees in the grounds of the neighboring Palais Schwarzenberg (the plans for these gardens date back to 1697)
- To the east, the large dome of the Salesian church and convent (completed in 1719)
You’re back in the 18th century.
All you require to become a member of the Baroque nobility is a decent wig, some uncomfortable clothes, and a few servants to oppress.
(View from the Kammergarten across to the Salesian church)
A fourth reason for visiting the gardens exists, too, but usually only in August. That’s when Kino im Kammergarten may take place: daily open-air cinema in the late evening.
Outdoor cinema has its own fascination, of course, but more so when that “open air” is flowing past historical gardens and early 18th-century palaces.
Ticket and visitor tips
Any ticket valid for Lower Belvedere includes entry to the Kammergarten (enter from the west wing of the palace).
(Booking service provided by Tiqets.com*, who I am an affiliate of)
Finding the Kammergarten
See the directions for the lower palace.
Address: Rennweg 6, 1030 Vienna
P.S. The city once intended leasing the Kammergarten to the composer Richard Strauss, but he chose instead to build a villa on the other side of the botanic gardens.