Time to swap Christmas baubles for palace balls, punch for sparkling wine, and sausages for…nope, keep the sausages. It’s New Year’s Eve in Vienna.
Discover how (and where) to celebrate when visiting, what to expect at the New Year markets, and local tips on getting the most out of your year-end trip. Warning: may include waltzes.
Let us begin with the local traditions…
How is New Year’s Eve celebrated?
New Year’s Eve is known as Silvester in Austria. It’s the Roman Catholic feast day of the same-named pope and saint, who died on December 31st, AD 335. None of which has any relevance, though, to how Vienna celebrates the turn of the year.
People party just like the rest of the world, but there are one or two little traditions in Vienna not shared by such cities as New York, London or Tokyo.
Just before midnight on New Year’s Eve, the main national TV station plays Dinner for One, a short comedy sketch recorded in 1963 (in English!). Then at midnight itself, the giant Pummerin bell of Vienna’s St Stephen’s cathedral rings in the New Year with the chimes broadcast across television and radio.
Once the last echoes of the Pummerin cease, all hell breaks loose, as everyone lets off fireworks (quite a few folk start practising well before midnight). Oh, and by everyone, I mean everyone. Balconies, courtyards, streets and squares across the city turn into launch pads for rockets and Roman candles. Broadcasters switch to the Blue Danube waltz and everyone dances in the New Year as lights explode across the night sky.
Then, just to add that last touch of romance to the evening, we all swap marzipan pigs. Seriously – they are lucky charms here.
The fireworks make quite a sight (and noise), leaving Vienna a smoky haze in the early morning redolent with the smell of gunpowder (possibly just my imagination).
If you want to get a good view of the fireworks over the city, then one option is to head up into the surrounding hills. Alternatively, try getting seats at the Danube Tower restaurant or Das Loft restaurant, both famous for their views. Book early. Very early. Or try other places known for great views of Vienna (the Gloriette will be inaccessible, though).
(Read more about Vienna’s New Year traditions.)
New Year’s Eve in Vienna is all about the Silvesterpfad, which translates literally as the “New Year’s Eve trail”. It’s a series of events and activities around the city centre that begins at 2 pm on December 31st and runs through to 2 am the next day. Last year (2017), some 700,000 people celebrated along it.
The city puts up temporary stages, so live performers, bands, orchestras, and DJs can entertain the masses until midnight and beyond.
The Viennese ballroom dancing schools offer free waltz courses on the Graben (the pedestrianised zone that leads away from St Stephen’s). And the State Opera House puts up a big screen outside with opera highlights. Dozens of food stands ensure you won’t go hungry or thirsty.
Then, at midnight, people gather in one of two places:
- The Stephansplatz square in front of the cathedral to hear the midnight chimes live
- The Rathausplatz square in front of the Rathaus town hall for a communal waltz and firework display (see photo above).
It’s a grand city-wide party.
(Read more about Vienna’s Silvesterpfad.)
New Year markets
Vienna is, of course, famous for its Christmas markets, but why stop there? Why indeed.
A couple of these markets morph into New Year alternatives from December 27th. This means you get all the sights, sounds, smells, and (most importantly) tastes that make the Christmas versions so popular, but without the nagging sense of guilt that you ought to buy a few presents while there.
The main New Year markets are:
- Schönbrunn Palace (Dec 27 to Jan 6)
- The Silvesterdorf on Maria-Theresien-Platz (Dec 27 to Dec 31)
- The Wintermarkt at the giant Ferris wheel (Nov 17 – Jan 6)
New Year events
The big traditional event is the New Year’s Concert given by the world-famous Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra at the Musikverein. What few people know is that there are actually three concerts with the same programme:
- A “preview performance” on Dec 30
- A Silvesterkonzert on Dec 31
- The actual New Year’s Concert on Jan 1st
Good luck getting tickets for any of these. And I don’t mean that sarcastically – a lottery system decides who can buy a ticket. You need to register at a special page on the orchestra’s website to have a chance. You’d think tickets would be astronomically expensive and some are, but prices actually start from around €20.
(Read more about the New Year’s Concert and how to get tickets.)
A lot of hotels and town palaces host special Silvester gala evenings for the 31st, too. The most well-known is probably the Hofburg Silvester Ball (the Hofburg is the winter palace of the Habsburgs).
If you’re out and about enjoying the New Year celebrations, dress up warm. Nobody can say quite what the weather will be, but you’re on safe ground if you assume “cold”. The temperatures at 7 pm on December 31st for the past five years were:
- 7.9°C / 46°F (2017)
- -1.1°C / 30°F (2016)
- -2.5°C / 28°F (2015)
- -3.8°C / 25°F (2014)
- 4.3°C / 40°F (2013)
Typically, the municipal transport services (Wiener Linien) extend operations for New Year’s Eve. So the subway lines run through the night at short intervals, only reverting to the normal nighttime schedule in the early hours. Many daytime tram lines and some bus lines also operate through the night, too.
Given the crowds on the Silvesterpfad, the trams that encircle the city centre on the Ring boulevard and buses that go through the centre usually don’t run once the festivities are in full swing. For the same reason, the subway station “Stephansplatz” is typically closed.
January 1st is a public holiday, but public holiday travel timetables in Vienna are usually better than most city’s normal timetables, so you needn’t worry about getting around on public transport on New Year’s Day.
Useful German phrases
Finally, to end this little guide, how about a couple of useful New Year phrases in German:
- Happy New Year / “guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr” (often shortened to just “guten Rutsch”)
- Sorry, I can’t hear you over the noise of the fireworks / “Ich kann Sie nicht hören wegen der Kracher”
- A marzipan pig – how delightful / “Ein Schwein aus Marzipan. Wie nett”