Given the cynical over-hyped world we live in, there are few experiences today that really live up to their image. One of those that do is a visit to a Christmas market (German: Weihnachtsmarkt) in Vienna.
Use the list below to find your way around the different markets, which provisionally start opening from mid-November in 2020. Discover which ones are best and get a few insider tips on how to make the most of a market visit.
NB: Events, etc. continue to be subject to public health restrictions in late 2020 and likely beyond. Be prepared for changes (e.g. compulsory face masks at all seasonal markets)
What’s a Christmas market?
Imagine crisp winter air, the glitter of a thousand candles, steaming mugs of punch, laughter, smiles, roasted chestnuts, the tinkle of glass baubles and the delicate crafts of a hundred artisans.
Now throw in the scent of baked potatoes, fresh bread, strudel, candied nuts and more.
Then spread it all out in front of a magnificent Baroque palace.
There you have it – a Viennese Christmas market. (I may have exaggerated a little, particularly the number of candles.)
The dictionary definition is simply a collection of wooden stalls during the weeks leading up to December 24th (and often beyond), with a mix of stands selling traditional Christmas foods, decorations, art and crafts, handmade toys, honey and other delicacies, candy, jewellery, and so on.
That rather clinical description fails to do justice to the concept, though.
Taste not tack
In recent years, the Vienna authorities and market organisers have worked hard to ensure an almost complete absence of tackiness from proceedings.
As a consequence, the Christmas markets are generally a tasteful affair, where plastic is rare and wood, straw, glass and fabric (and enough food and drink to kill an elephant) dominate.
Though they’re worth visiting just for the atmosphere, the markets also make for excellent shopping.
You’ll normally find a range of potential gift items: carved flowers made of soap, Victorian-style candy, sculpted candles, handcrafted decorations, wooden nativity scenes and much, much (much) more.
Numerous Christmas markets pop up across the advent period, varying in size from a couple of stalls selling food to the hundreds of stalls that make up the famous Christkindlmarkt on the Rathausplatz. There’s even a city walking tour* that takes in four of them.
The only downside is the main markets can get busy – fighting your way through the latest bus group sometimes takes the edge off the romanticism (but see my tips for advice on when to go).
Of course, the unusual circumstances of 2020 likely mean fewer visitors for this market season as well as modified operations to account for public health requirements (e.g. compulsory facemasks).
The main Christmas markets
Christkindlmarkt
The biggest and most famous Christmas market, located in front of the Rathaus city hall. A large Christmas tree dominates the centre with dozens of surrounding stalls offering the full spectrum of seasonal offerings. (More information)
The adjacent park has plenty of Advent surprises, too. For example, look out for the tree full of glowing hearts and the illuminated ice skating trail.
For a good photo of everything, cross the road at the main entrance and stand on the steps of the Burgtheater building opposite.
Belvedere
Kind of my favourite, but I’m a bit of a Belvedere fan with its wonderful art exhibitions. Not the largest market and a little bit away from the centre, so fewer crowds usually gather than at most other alternatives.
Perhaps the biggest pull is the gorgeous location: in front of the Upper Belvedere palace and next to a small lake, offering a glorious photo opportunity at dusk. (More information)
Schönbrunn
Hard to beat in terms of elegance and style. The market forms a grand circle of stalls in the forecourt of Schönbrunn Palace, with its giant Christmas tree and imperial splendour. Also a particular favourite of mine. (More information)
The stalls here always seem very high quality, so a fine place to pick up gifts and those little bits and pieces that make life a better place even if you don’t really need them.
Altes AKH
In the grounds of the old hospital. Not a regular haunt for tourists, but quite popular with locals because it has a nice central area with food and drink stalls and plenty of bar tables. People often meet up here after work for a bite to eat and a mug of something warming. (More information)
Locals sometimes come here with their kids, too, as the courtyard has a playground and the market normally has one or two rides or donkeys to amuse the little ones.
Stephansplatz
This Christmas market is about as central as they come since it curls around the edges of Stephansdom. The cathedral makes for a wonderful backdrop and the market allows you to refresh yourself after strolling through the pedestrianised centre of Vienna. (More information)
Am Hof
This one’s fairly central, too, and located on a square surrounded by historic buildings (including the one where Mozart first performed in Vienna). A section dedicated to independent artists serves as an excellent source of unique gift ideas. (More information)
I have a soft spot for this one, because Am Hof is the historical centre of Vienna where the first Duke of Austria set up his court. Markets have occupied this space for centuries.
Freyung
Just up from Am Hof is the Freyung, perhaps most notable for the organic farmer’s Christmas market with its wonderful specialties from the more rural parts of Austria. Try the Bergkäse cheese – it’s sharp as a knife. (More information)
Maria-Theresien-Platz
One of the biggest Christmas markets and another glorious location, sandwiched between the Natural History and Art History museums, and under the watchful eye of Empress Maria Theresia. (More information)
The market feels particularly magical and atmospheric after dusk. Both museums look gorgeous lit up at night and the square’s topiary has its own tasteful illuminated decorations.
Karlsplatz
And another big one, sprawled beneath the giant Karlskirche church. It’s a little “alternative” and features many arts and craft stalls. The organisers have strict rules about who can set up a stall here, ensuring diversity, quality, and authenticity. Still a bit of a local secret. (More information)
Spittelberg
A little different to the others, in that this Christmas market sprawls around narrow streets in one of Vienna’s more bohemian quarters. Used to be known for its artistic flair, but has got a touch more commercial in recent years. (More information)
Michaelerplatz
Quite a small market, but a lovely and very central location. It sits at one end of the Hofburg palace with its huge domed entrance. Also notable for the unique white booths that fit the surrounds perfectly. (More information)
Stallburg (Spanish Riding School
New (to me) last year, but I hope they repeat the exercise in 2020. A remarkably atmospheric small market in the main courtyard of the stables of the Spanish Riding School. This is not a place you can usually access without a tour guide, so worth going just to get nearer the wonderful Lipizzaner horses. (More information)
Temporary markets
Two rather nice markets normally spring up for a couple of days at the end of November, though both are skipping 2020 (unfortunately):
- So schmeckt NÖ advent market: a two-day event showcasing the products and music of Vienna’s neighbour: Lower Austria. Held in the fabulous Palais Niederösterreich
- Medieval advent market: a four-day event at the excellent Heeresgeschichtliches Museum
Alternatives
Finally, if it’s all too Christmassy for you, then try these alternatives:
- Wintergarten
im MQ: sort of the nightclub version of a Christmas market. Not a carol in sight, normally. Or a market, frankly. Just innovative light displays, outdoor bars, art installations and wintry (ish) sports in the thriving contemporary art complex that is the Museumsquartier
- Wintermarkt
am Riesenradplatz: food and drink stalls only, and right next to a circus, carousel, mini train, and huge entertainment complex
- Genussmarkt bei der Oper: another food and drink market, usually full of Austrian and Italian specialties (quite small, but undercover, so better if the weather turns bad)
- Vienna in December: discover all the other events and activities going on that have nothing to do with the Advent season