Given our over-hyped world, few experiences live up to their image. One exception is a visit to a Christmas market in Vienna: a Weihnachtsmarkt. Use this guide to find your way around the most popular locations.
- Book a classical concert experience* for your trip
- See also:
All the main 2024 markets have already opened. I review these below, but also have separate tips on which ones are best for different needs and how to make the most of a visit.
What’s a Christmas market?
(The main entrance to the Christkindlmarkt in front of city hall)
The Christmas market goes by various names, but all tend to follow the same pattern…
Imagine crisp winter air, the glitter of lights and candles, steaming mugs of punch, smiles and laughter, roasted chestnuts, the tinkle of glass baubles, and the delicate crafts of numerous artisans.
Now throw in the scent of fresh pastries, strudel, candied nuts, chocolate-covered fruit, and more.
Then spread it all out in front of a magnificent historical building and turn your clocks back a few decades.
There you have it: a Viennese Christmas market.
The “dictionary definition” is a collection of wooden stalls that sell traditional Christmas and seasonal foods & beverages to consume immediately, honey, jams & delicacies to take away, candy and chocolate, decorations, handmade toys, jewellery, clothing, ceramics, and many other arts and crafts.
This all happens during the weeks leading up to late December (and sometimes beyond).
Taste not tack
The Christmas markets in Vienna are broadly a tasteful affair. Plastic is rare, and wood, straw, glass, metal, clay, and fabric (and enough food and drink to feed a blue whale) dominate.
Although the atmosphere alone justifies a visit, the markets also make for excellent shopping.
(A stand selling Christmas punch)
Booths sell a wide range of potential gift items, for example. Like sculpted candles, handcrafted decorations, wooden nativity scenes, jewellery, tableware, gourmet condiments, and much, much (much) more.
Numerous Christmas markets pop up across the Advent period, varying in size from a couple of stalls selling snacks to the dozens of stalls at such locations as the famous Christkindlmarkt on the central Rathausplatz square.
The only downside is the main markets can get busy. Fighting your way through the latest bus group sometimes takes the edge off the romanticism. So…
My timing tip
A nice way to enjoy the day is to visit a market in the late afternoon as the sun goes down but before the real crowds appear. Then enjoy the historical and advent ambience at one of the evening light classical concerts* put on especially for visitors.
Sometimes the two are neighbours, like the Karlskirche church concerts next to the Art Advent market on Karlsplatz. Or the Stephansdom cathedral concerts next to the Stephansplatz market.
The main markets
I’ve not listed every single Christmas market in the city, but these are the more popular and/or central ones…
Christkindlmarkt
(Lighted trees in the surrounding park)
This is the most visited and famous Christmas market, located in front of the imposing Rathaus city hall. In 2024, a notably wider layout may spread the crowds out somewhat.
A large Christmas tree dominates the centre with dozens of surrounding stalls offering the full spectrum of seasonal offerings.
The adjacent park either side of the square has plenty of advent surprises, too. For example, look out for the instagrammable tree full of glowing hearts or the lighted open-air ice skating routes.
For a good photo of everything, cross the road at the main entrance and stand on the steps of the Burgtheater building opposite.
Schönbrunn
(The entrance to the palace area)
Hard to beat in terms of elegant and stylish backdrops. This market forms up in the forecourt of Schönbrunn Palace, with its giant Christmas tree and imperial splendour. Also a particular favourite of mine.
The stalls here always seem strong on quality, so a fine place to pick up gifts and those little bits and pieces that make life a better place even if you don’t really need them. Also convenient for the palace concerts.
The market changed hands in 2024 and added ice skating, curling and other family-friendly offerings to the usual booths.
Belvedere
(The fairytale twilight view)
Kind of my favourite, but I’m a fan of the surrounding complex with its wonderful art exhibitions. Not the largest market and a little away from the centre, so fewer crowds usually gather here than at most other alternatives.
Perhaps the biggest pull is the gorgeous location: in front of the early 18th-century Upper Belvedere palace and next to a small lake, offering a glorious photo opportunity at dusk.
(When I say glorious, I mean GLORIOUS.)
Altes AKH
The gastronomy stalls here mostly accumulate in a large and open central area full of bar tables, where they sell regional food and drink from across Austria.
(A stand selling punch in all its varieties)
As a result, locals often meet up here after work for a bite to eat and a mug of something warming in what is the grounds of the former general hospital.
Longer opening hours than most markets also encourages such social gettogethers.
Stephansplatz
(A view into the market with the rear of the cathedral behind)
This Christmas market is about as central as they come since it curls around the outside of Stephansdom. The cathedral makes a wonderful backdrop, and the market allows you to refresh yourself after strolling through the pedestrianised centre of Vienna.
Stephansdom puts on a programme of Christmas concerts*, too.
One end of the market actually meets the parking spot for the horse-drawn carriages that ply their trade in town, which adds another level of historical atmosphere to proceedings.
Am Hof
(The church in the background is over 600 years old)
This one’s fairly central, too, and located on a square surrounded by historical buildings (including the one where Mozart first performed in Vienna).
A section dedicated to independent artists serves as a source of unique gift ideas.
I have a soft spot for this one, because Am Hof represents the historical centre of medieval Vienna, where the first Duke of Austria set up his court. Markets have occupied this space for centuries.
Freyung
(The backdrop is the Schottenstift abbey that dates back hundreds of years)
Just up from Am Hof is the Altwiener Christkindlmarkt on the Freyung square.
Also notable for the adjoining organic farmer’s market with its specialties from the more rural parts of Austria. Try the Bergkäse cheese: sharp as an Oxford professor.
The Freyung market has an authentic feel, thanks to the smaller size and, particularly, the mix of historical buildings that surround it: medieval churches, Baroque townhouses, and 18th-century apothecaries.
Maria-Theresien-Platz
(The market, monument and Kunsthistorisches Museum)
One of the biggest Christmas markets and another glorious central location, sandwiched between the 19th-century Naturhistorisches and Kunsthistorisches museums, and under the watchful eye of Empress Maria Theresa sitting atop her giant monument.
The market feels particularly magical and atmospheric after dusk. Both museums look gorgeous lit up at night.
Karlsplatz
(All the food here is certified organic)
And another big one, sprawled in front of the giant Baroque Karlskirche. The church hosts performances of Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons in the evening, which we loved.
The Art Advent market has an “alternative” feel to it and features many unique arts and craft stalls. The organisers have strict rules about who can set up here, ensuring diversity, quality, and authenticity. Still a bit of a local secret.
Definitely consider the Karlsplatz market if you’re looking for unusual or unique items to take back home with you. We always make sure to pop in here to pick up a few gifts for people.
Spittelberg
(The “before” photo)
A little different to the others, in that this Christmas market sprawls around narrow streets in one of Vienna’s more bohemian quarters. Light spills out from neighbouring bars and specialty stores, giving it all a cosy local feel.
The Biedermeier architectural surrounds make for a unique ambience, and the market also enjoys a strong reputation for a more unique kind of arts & crafts.
Michaelerplatz
(Those railings hide remains of Roman buildings)
Quite a small market, but a lovely and very central location. It sits at one end of the Hofburg palace with its huge domed entrance. Also notable for the unique white booths that match the imperial tone.
The square once sat at the crossroads of Roman trade routes, and the market actually backs on to Roman excavations. Do not, however, expect to find a dormouse-on-a-stick or larks’ tongue pretzels.
Hirschstetten
(Goodies we garnered from the Hirschstetten market)
A little away from the typical areas visited by tourists on a large nursery and botanical gardens in Vienna’s 22nd district.
A large number of booths with a more local aura than some of the central markets. The Hirschstetten advent market also offers something entirely unique: a giant floral exhibition that turns glasshouses into a magnificent themed winter wonderland.
Alternative markets
(The Wintermarkt takes place below the famous giant ferris wheel)
Christmas markets that focus less on arts and crafts and more on food, beverages and/or gourmet offerings include:
- Wintermarkt am Riesenradplatz: largely food and drink stalls only. Right next to a carousel, mini train, the famous giant Ferris wheel, and the huge Prater entertainment complex
- Weihnachtszauber: one with a definite local flavour. Hosted by the Ottakringer brewery in the 16th district, the Weihnachtszauber Christmas world includes bonus weekend markets in the adjoining event hall
- Advent Genussmarkt: a mainly food and drink market next to the state opera house. Usually full of Austrian and Italian specialties. Quite small
And, if it all gets too overtly Christmassy for you, then consider this suggestion:
- Winter im MQ: sort of the nightclub version of a Christmas market. Not a carol in sight, normally. Or a market, frankly. Just a modern ambience, outdoor cafés and restaurants, art installations and wintry (ish) sports in the thriving Museumsquartier contemporary art complex
Short-term markets
(Share some mead with a dragon at the HGM advent market)
Some other market delights spring up for just a couple of days. For example:
- HGM advent market: a hugely popular event behind the excellent Heeresgeschichtliches Museum with food, drink, and wares typically matching some historical theme
- Palais Niederösterreich: the So Schmeckt NÖ Adventmarkt features excellent cuisine and products from the province of Lower Austria. Also handy for the legendary Café Central
- Shades of Art: a small Christmas art bazaar alongside a local group art exhibition in the 6th district
- Weihnachtsquartier: more a design market than a Christmas market, but great for gifts. Held in the central and historical Urania building
- Edelstoff design fair Xmas edition in the Marx Halle venue: another design market with a special seasonal edition
And finally…
(I miss the market in the Stallburg, which let you get close to the Lipizzaner horses of the Spanish Riding School)
More markets exist (which I will try and get to eventually). For example:
- The Transport Museum has an Advent market that typically includes an opportunity to take a trip on an old timer tram on selected days
- The Gartenpalais Liechtenstein provides a classic ambience for an advent market, too
- The stables of the Spanish Riding School hosted a small, atmospheric market back in 2019. I’m unsure if this event will ever repeat, though
Of course, once you’ve had your fill of chocolate-coated strawberries and mulled wine, discover all the other December events and activities going on that have nothing to do with the Advent season.
In particular, expect some top-class art exhibitions: Chagall, Gauguin and Rembrandt star in 2024, for example.