Austria has plenty of Christmas markets. But the most famous is probably on Vienna’s Rathausplatz, the square in front of the town hall. This Christkindlmarkt is the centrepiece of the Viennese Christmas experience…
- Vienna’s most renowned Christmas market
- Around 100 booths
- Adjacent park has its own Advent surprises and lights
- Includes the Tree of Hearts
- Greater emphasis on sustainability and kids this year
- 2022 dates: Nov 19 – Dec 26
- See also:
A Christmas Tradition
(The giant entrance arch)
There are those who argue in favour of the more cultured alternatives at Schönbrunn or Karlsplatz, for example. But the Christmas market that garners the most attention in Vienna is the Rathausplatz version.
This is the home of the Wiener Christkindlmarkt. The roots of this yuletide market go back to the late 18th century, though it only moved to its present location in 1975. Who knows how many visitors it normally attracts, but estimates have put the number at over 4 million in previous years.
But that’s not all on offer at the Rathausplatz, because the surrounding park has its own Christmas treats, too.
The Christkindlmarkt
(The market, Rathaus, and giant tree)
All lit up with the partly-illuminated city hall behind it, the market makes quite a sight; the Christkindlmarkt has blossomed in recent years, thanks to higher-quality stands and an improved decorative ambience. In 2022, the booths are even required to meet new sustainability criteria.
On the culinary front, you’ll find the traditional roast chestnut stalls and various places selling everything from cream-filled pastries to Fladenbrot (flatbread with toppings).
And you’re never more than a short throw of a chocolate-coated strawberry away from somewhere offering mugs of Christmas punch.
Gastronomy at the market is either certified organic or carries the Natürlich gut essen mark, which indicates a focus on regional, seasonal and organic food.
A few covered areas form a new feature for 2022, so you can enjoy those snacks and refreshments in shelter. We even get an indoor coffee house this year (this is Vienna, after all).
The non-food front makes for quite an eclectic mix.
Art and craft stalls show off the handiwork of artisans from Austria and surrounding countries. And while you might have upcycled hats and gourmet honeys, you also get novelty jumpers and cuddly toys.
(A carousel for kids)
Towering over all this market activity is a giant merry-go-round and the Rathaus Christmas tree, the later glittering with LED lights.
Each year, a different Austrian province gifts the giant tree to Vienna in a traditional gesture of friendship (possibly through gritted teeth, depending on the current state of domestic politics).
That merry-go-round is not the only nod to the kids. Dedicated locations offering advent activities for young children open from 2pm to 6pm, with earlier opening on weekends and public holidays.
The Rathaus park
(Decorative lights in front of the tree of hearts)
Though the market itself delights with its mix of traditional Christmas sights and smells, make sure you also wander through the surrounds.
The park areas either side of the square feature a fair few seasonal highlights, such as a nativity scene trail and a Ferris wheel.
The decorations and lights turn parts of the park into a romantic wonderland (if you ignore the people and smartphones). And the romance goes all the way up to 11 with the now traditional Tree of Hearts, which I can never seem to photograph adequately.
(The tree of hearts in 2022 with new LED lights; in the foreground Mayor Ludwig and the 2022 Christkind, Angelina; press photo © C.Jobst/PID)
A bit kitschig and twee? Of course. But twigs and boughs full of lighted hearts makes a fine place to share a snack with a loved one.
And this is the time of the year when you suspend your cynicism, embrace the seasonal spirit, and replace your troubles with something made of pastry and lathered in enough chocolate to float a cow.
Another highlight in the park is the illuminated ice skating (where you hire skates on site), which lets you glide through some 3,000m2 of the park and transports you into a Disneyesque Christmas wonderland (albeit with considerably more sausages and less fairy glitter).
The ice skating remains open longer than the market (until January 8th but is closed on New Year’s Eve and closes earlier on December 24th).
(The Ferris wheel)
The Christkindlmarkt’s organisers once declared the market an area of respite from commercial Christmas stress. But don’t imagine this implies you can take a gentle stroll around the stalls. At peak times, the place can get rather busy.
Having said that, the market follows a more open layout in 2022, which makes for a slightly more relaxed visit when you’re not fighting your way up an aisle.
The best time to go is (inevitably) after dark, when the lights and sights combine to give the true Christmas market experience you read about in leatherbound tomes of travel. Just be prepared to share that experience with quite a lot of other folk, especially as you near December 24th.
P.S. If you want a good twilight photo without actually entering the market, stand at the top of the steps leading up to the Burgtheater and look across for a great view of the lighted entrance arch and illuminated booths.
Opening times 2022
Dates for 2022 are November 19th through to December 26th. Opening times for the market and rides etc. are:
- 10am to 9.30pm
- Closes at 6.30pm on December 24th, 25th and 26th
How to get to the Christkindlmarkt
Public transport gets you to the market easily, though its within walking distance of most of the centre. Even closer if you stay in one of the nearby hotels.
The trams 1, 71 and D stop right outside (the stop called Rathausplatz / Burgtheater).
Alternatives requiring a short stroll are…
Tram: Lines 2 (get out at the Rathaus or Stadiongasse / Parlament stop), 49 and 46 (both Ring/Volkstheater), 37, 38, 40, 41, 42, 43 and 44 (all Schottentor)
Subway: U3 (get out at Volkstheater) and U2 (get out at Rathaus or Volkstheater)
Bus: 1a (get out at Schottentor) and 48a (Ring/Volkstheater)
Address: Christkindlmarkt, Rathausplatz, 1010 Vienna | Website