Austria has plenty of Christmas markets. But the biggest is on Vienna’s Rathausplatz, the square in front of the town hall. This Christkindlmarkt is the centrepiece of the Viennese Christmas experience…
- Vienna’s largest Christmas market
- Adjacent park is full of Advent surprises and lights
- Includes the famous Tree of Hearts
- 2022 dates: Nov 19 – Dec 26
- See also:
A Christmas Dream
There are those who argue in favour of the smaller and more cultured alternatives in Schönbrunn or Karlsplatz, for example. But the Christmas market that garners the most attention in Vienna is the Rathausplatz version.
This is the home of the Wiener Christkindlmarkt. The roots of this yuletide market go back to the late 18th century, though it only moved to its present location in 1975. Who knows how many visitors it normally attracts, but estimates have put the number at over 4 million a year.
But that’s not all on offer at the Rathausplatz, because the surrounding park has numerous Christmas treats, too.
The Christkindlmarkt
All lit up with the illuminated city hall behind it, the market makes quite a sight.
But it wasn’t always this good.
Many years ago, the Christkindlmarkt had more booths selling imported plastic toys. Not anymore: the quality of the stands is much higher and the market has blossomed in recent years, not least through the newer illuminations.
Browse for your Christmas accommodation
(service provided by Booking.com*, who I am an affiliate of)
On the culinary front, you’ll find the traditional roast chestnut stalls and a host of booths selling everything from cream-filled pastries and a dozen varieties of pretzel to giant doughnuts and Victorian-style lollipops.
And you’re never more than a short throw of a chocolate strawberry away from somewhere offering mugs of Christmas punch.
On the non-food front, stalls selling Christmas decorations and arts and crafts (or both) tend to dominate.
We’re not talking “ten for a dollar” plastic decorations, but more upmarket alternatives often made of glass or wood. And the arts and crafts stalls show off the handiwork of numerous artisans from Austria and surrounding countries.
Towering over the centre of all this market activity is the Rathaus Christmas tree, which glitters with 2,000 LED lights.
Each year, a different Austrian province gifts the giant tree to Vienna in a traditional gesture of friendship (possibly through gritted teeth, depending on the current state of domestic politics).
The Rathaus park
Though the market itself delights with its mix of traditional Christmas sights and smells, make sure you also wander through the surrounds.
The park areas either side of the square typically feature a fair few seasonal highlights, such as a nativity scene trail, carousels, and a Ferris wheel.
The decorations and lights turn parts of the park into a romantic wonderland (if you ignore the people and smartphones). And the romance goes all the way up to 11 with the now traditional Tree of Hearts.
A bit kitschig and twee?
Of course.
But this is the time of the year when you suspend your cynicism, embrace the seasonal spirit, and replace your troubles with something made of pastry and lathered in enough chocolate to float a cow.
Another highlight in normal years has been the illuminated ice skating (where you can hire skates on site), which lets you glide through some 3,000m2 of the park and transports you into a Disneyesque Christmas wonderland (albeit with considerably more sausages and less fairy glitter).
The Christkindlmarkt’s organisers once declared the market an area of respite from commercial Christmas stress. But don’t imagine this implies you can take a gentle stroll around the stalls. At peak times, the place can get rather busy.
The best time to visit is at night, when the lights and sights combine to give the true Christmas market experience you read about in books. Just be prepared to share that experience with quite a lot of other folk, especially as you near December 24th.
P.S. If you want a good twilight photo without actually entering the market, stand at the top of the steps leading up to the Burgtheater and look across for a great view of the entrance lights and illuminated Rathaus.
Opening times 2022
Planned dates for 2022 are November 19th through to December 26th. Opening times last time out were:
- 10am to 9.30pm (10pm on Fridays and Saturdays)
- Closed at 7pm on December 24th
How to get to the Christkindlmarkt
Public transport gets you to the market easily. The trams 1, 71 and D stop right outside (the stop called Rathausplatz / Burgtheater).
Alternatives requiring a short walk are…
Tram: Lines 2 (get out at the Rathaus or Stadiongasse / Parlament stop), 49 and 46 (both Ring/Volkstheater), 37, 38, 40, 41, 42, 43 and 44 (all Schottentor)
Subway: U3 (get out at Volkstheater) and U2 (get out at Rathaus or Volkstheater)
Bus: 1a (get out at Schottentor) and 48a (Ring/Volkstheater)
Address: Christkindlmarkt, Rathausplatz, 1010 Vienna | Website