There are plenty of Christmas markets in Austria and lots in Vienna. But the biggest is on the Rathausplatz, the square in front of the town hall. This Christkindlmarkt is the centrepiece of the Vienna Christmas Dream experience…
- Vienna’s largest (and busiest) Christmas market
- Around 150 stalls
- Adjacent park is full of Advent surprises and lights, including the famous Tree of Hearts
- 2020 dates: Nov 13 – Dec 26
- See also: Christmas markets in Vienna
NB: Events, etc. continue to be subject to public health restrictions in late 2020 and likely beyond. Be prepared for changes (e.g. compulsory face masks at all seasonal markets)
The Christmas Dream
There are those who’ll argue in favour of the smaller and more cultured alternatives in Schönbrunn or Karlsplatz, for example. But the Christmas market that garners the most attention (and crowds) in Vienna is the Rathausplatz version.
This is the home of the Wiener Christkindlmarkt. The roots of this yuletide market go back to the late 18th century, though it only moved to its present location in 1975. Who knows how many visitors it normally attracts, but estimates put the number at over 4 million a year.
But that’s not all on offer at the Rathausplatz, because the surrounding park has numerous Christmas treats, too.
The Christkindlmarkt
All lit up with the illuminated city hall behind it, the market makes quite a sight.
But it wasn’t always this good.
Many years ago, the Christkindlmarkt looked as if it might degenerate into a rather tasteless venue, where every second stand seemed to sell imported plastic toys. Not anymore – the quality of the stands is high and the market has blossomed in recent years.
On the culinary front, you’ll find the traditional roast chestnut stalls and a host of booths selling everything from cream-filled pastries and a dozen varieties of pretzel to giant doughnuts and Victorian-style lollipops.
And you’re never more than a short throw of a chocolate strawberry away from somewhere offering mugs of Christmas punch.
On the non-food front, stalls selling Christmas decorations and arts and crafts (or both) dominate.
We’re not talking “Ten for a dollar” plastic decorations, but more upmarket alternatives often made of glass or wood. And the arts and crafts stalls show off the handiwork of numerous artisans from Austria and surrounding countries.
Towering over the centre of all this market activity is the enormous Rathaus Christmas tree with its 2,000 LED lights (an annual gift to Vienna from the other Austrian provinces).
From December 1st to the 23rd, the area below the tree usually echoes to the sound of a live brass band and choir in the evenings (I’ll confirm exact dates and times later in the year, though the current public health situation may affect performances).
The Rathaus park
Though the market itself delights with its mix of traditional Christmas sights and smells, make sure you also wander through the surrounds.
The park areas either side of the square feature a fair few seasonal highlights, such as a nativity scene trail, carousels, a Ferris wheel, and a reindeer train (for kids).
The decorations and lights turn parts of the park into a romantic wonderland (if you ignore the crowds and smartphones). And the romance goes all the way up to 11 with the Tree of Hearts: in 2019, a raised platform let you take a picture in front of it with a loved one.
Another highlight is the illuminated ice skating (you can hire skates on site), which lets you glide through 3,000m2 of the park, thus transporting you into some Utopian Disneyesque Christmas wonderland (albeit with considerably more sausages).
The Christkindlmarkt’s organisers once declared the market an area of respite from commercial Christmas stress. But don’t imagine this implies you can take a gentle stroll around the stalls. At peak times, the place is wall-to-wall with visitors.
The best time to visit is at night, of course, when the lights and smells combine to give the true Christmas market experience you read about in books.
But there’s a fine line to tread.
Come too late and you hit that visitor rush hour. So, if you have the choice, go midweek in the early evening. You get enough people to engender the right atmosphere, but not so many that it becomes a hassle just getting from one stall to the next.
Things may be less busy in 2020, of course, for reasons I don’t need to explain.
P.S. If you want a good twilight photo without actually entering the market, stand at the top of the steps leading up to the Burgtheater on the other side of the road and look across for a great view of the entrance lights and illuminated Rathaus.
Opening times 2020
Planned opening is November 13th to December 26th. Times are:
- 11am to 9.30pm (10pm on Fridays and Saturdays)
- Closed at 7pm on December 24th
- 11am to 9.30pm on December 25th and 26th
Note that the market may also be
How to get to the Christkindlmarkt
Public transport gets you to the market easily. The trams 1, 71 and D stop right outside (the stop called Rathausplatz / Burgtheater).
Alternatives requiring a short walk are…
Tram: Lines 2 (get out at the Rathaus or Stadiongasse / Parlament stop), 49 and 46 (both Ring/Volkstheater), 37, 38, 40, 41, 42, 43 and 44 (all Schottentor)
Subway: U3 (get out at Volkstheater) and U2 (get out at Rathaus or Volkstheater)
Bus: 1a (get out at Schottentor) and 48a (Ring/Volkstheater)
Address: Christkindlmarkt, Rathausplatz, 1010 Vienna | Website