Should you enjoy a glass of vino at the Am Hof Christmas market, you’re following in ancient footsteps. The same location hosted a wine market as early as 1358 (the main difference being a lack of an ATM back then).
- Includes a section dedicated to unique arts and crafts
- Particularly good for the variety of food and drink available
- Popular with locals and close to the Freyung market
- Typically over 75 stands
- 2023 dates: Nov 10 – Dec 23
- See also:
The market
(View into the market with the Kirche Am Hof behind)
Am Hof is a large central square in Vienna rich in historical atmosphere.
Henry II, the Babenberg Duke of Austria resided here in the 12th Century, which hints at the age of this part of the city.
Inevitably, then, a fair few older sites surround the stalls of the Am Hof Christmas market.
Mozart first performed in Vienna at Palais Collalto, for example, and the imposing Kirche am Hof church dates back as far as the 14th century (the façade is a mere 350 years old, mind you); three popes have spoken from its balcony.
The central Mariensäule column gives thanks to the Virgin Mary for the Swedish army’s decision to do a detour around Vienna back in 1645. Which was good news for the city, because the Swedes carried more swords than selfie sticks.
The square has actually hosted markets for centuries, but the first Christmas one here appeared just as Charles Dickens began work on a story about a miserly old fellow named Scrooge.
Today’s Am Hof Christmas market is ideal for those who like their sights and activities packed together, being close to Stephansdom (St. Stephen’s Cathedral) in the city centre and a short walk from the Freyung Christmas market as well.
Think of the market as made up of two parts.
The first part is the Kunsthandwerkmarkt (arts and crafts market), which usually features just over 20 huts selling, well, “arts and crafts”. This is not your run-of-the-mill craft market, though.
(View down the art & crafts section)
Unlike most market stands, you can go into some of these. You essentially have a wide aisle of miniature shops (handy for lifting your spirits if the weather turns grim).
The items on sale also possess a certain level of artistic quality; if you’re looking for unique gifts, consider this a good place to start.
Expect plenty of variety. On my last visit, this meant everything from art deco candle holders and abstract paintings to beer bottle clocks, stained glass cats, and turnery wood.
The second part consists of the more traditional Christmas market featuring the usual seasonal classics, like punch, jams, ceramics, jewellery, accessories, textiles, and more. And the all-important ATM.
Am Hof feels as if it offers a wider range of food and drink than at many of the other Viennese markets. You certainly won’t go hungry.
(Entrance to the market with the church and Park Hyatt hotel in the background)
In 2022, for example, the market boasted a champagne bar and a popular stand selling traditional langos.
Other stands offered roast nuts, chocolate-coated fruits, Lebkuchen, soups, Alpine cheeses, Baumkuchen (cakes baked on a spit), French nougat, Tyrolean specialties like Gröstl (fried potatoes and mincemeat), plates of cured ham, raclette (releasing the mouthwatering scent of melted cheese), and more.
Even as a vegetarian, I loved the look of the traditional stand selling great strings of sausages in all their forms, which always adds a medieval feel to that particular corner of the market.
Before or after your visit, head toward the very centre of the city from here to see the Christmas lights in the pedestrianised zone along the Graben and Kohlmarkt.
That walk also takes you to other markets, like the one on Stephansplatz.
(Bar tables for your convenience)
Opening hours 2023
Dates for the 2023 Am Hof market are November 10th to December 23rd with these opening times:
- 11am to 9pm (Mon-Thurs)
- 10am to 9pm (Fri-Sun and public holidays)
- Food & drink served an hour longer
How to get to Am Hof
The Christmas market is right in the centre of town (it used to be the *actual* centre of medieval Vienna). You also pass it on Part 4 of my recommended self-guided walking tour route of the city.
Subway: U1 (Stephansplatz), U3 (Herrengasse) or U2 (Schottentor). Each is a short walk from Am Hof, or you can catch one of the bus lines below
Bus: The market is within a quick walk of various bus stops, including Graben/Petersplatz (1A or 2A), Schwertgasse (1A or 3A) and Teinfaltstraße (1A)
Address: Am Hof, 1010 Vienna | Website