Now that’s a tough question.
First, the good news: none of the main Christmas markets are going to let you down. The general standard is quite high, so you’ll be fine if you wander into one at random.
However, if you’ve specific needs, then these tips may help. Bear in mind this is just my subjective analysis, based on my own experiences at each of the markets mentioned.
NB: Events, markets, etc. continue to be subject to public health restrictions in late 2020 and likely beyond so be prepared for (possibly significant) changes. Check with official sites.
Want impressive views and surrounds?
(The gateway to Schönbrunn Christmas market)
You have to be quite unlucky not to have impressive views and surrounds, as Vienna’s full of historical buildings.
My favourite market is Belvedere, simply for the view across the lake toward Upper Belvedere palace (took my breath away when I first saw it). It feels almost like a fairytale and you quite expect some Disney princess to suddenly appear on a sleigh pulled by animated frogs.
The Schönbrunn market sits just in front of the magnificent Habsburg summer palace, which is a rather handsome location, too. The piped-in classical music adds a subtle touch of historical class to the atmosphere.
The two markets bordering the Ring both enjoy a more-than-decent imperial backdrop:
- The market on Maria-Theresien-Platz has the museums, Heldentor gates and Museumsquartier on all four sides, with a large monument as its centrepiece
The market on Stephansplatz curls around the illuminated Stephansdom cathedral in the old town. And the k.u.k. Weihnachtsmarkt sits on Michaelerplatz, next to the great domed entrance to the Hofburg area, the gothic St Michael’s church, and the Loos House.
All the above look really rather impressive at night, when the surrounding architecture lights up, too.
Shopping for decorations?
You’ll have to walk a long way to find a Christmas market that doesn’t sell decorations of one kind or another.
Schönbrunn is excellent, with many stalls dedicated to quality handmade decorations using a variety of materials.
The Freyung makes an excellent choice, too, as do the larger markets at the Rathausplatz and Maria-Theresien-Platz.
Shopping for unusual gifts?
(Ceramic decorations at the Christmas market on Karlsplatz)
Again, you can find unique gifts at pretty much any market. However, there are three locations that fill this niche very well:
- The stalls on Karlsplatz only sell products they’ve made themselves and there’s a jury-based quality test, too. So it has a reputation for fine, original, and often a little unusual handmade items
- Similar criteria apply to the small boulevard of artist booths at the Am Hof market
- I was very impressed with the Schönbrunn market last time, too – lots of tremendous arts and crafts
Got young kids?
You can keep them busy at just about any market with an unfeasibly large pretzel covered in chocolate or other such sweet distractions. Chocolate-coated strawberries used to work for us.
Local families often gravitate to the Altes AKH, because of the rides, live animals, and an adjoining playground. The Karlsplatz market also usually has rides, plus a large, open, straw-strewn area for kids to romp around in.
Then there’s the Wintermarkt. This is not a traditional market in the true sense of the word, being almost entirely food and drink. However, it occupies a square at the entrance to the giant Prater funfair.
Just on the square itself you have, for example, Madame Tussauds, a carousel, a winter train, dodgems, and the famous Riesenrad Ferris Wheel.
(Incidentally, if you have kids, you might like a few general tips for visiting Vienna with children.)
Short on time?
(The central Christmas market on Stephansplatz)
Public transport in Vienna offers easy access to all of the markets, but the Altes AKH, Belvedere, Wintermarkt, Spittelberg and Schönbrunn locations do mean travelling a little outside the city centre.
If you’re in the very centre, pop up to the Am Hof, Michaelerplatz or Freyung markets. They’re not far from Stephansplatz (the central square in front of Stephansdom cathedral) and relatively small, so you can get around them quickly. And, of course, Stephansplatz itself now provides a home for a little Christmas market, too.
Don’t like crowds?
Good luck. (I feel your pain as an introvert myself.)
There’s no market that never gets busy. But, actually, you can avoid the crowds simply by going a little earlier in the day, as many markets open mid-morning.
If you want to enjoy the soft lights in the darkening twilight of imperial Vienna, then go midweek for the best chance of space. The crowds come as the sun sets and the Christkindlmarkt on the Rathausplatz, for example, gets packed very quickly. On weekend evenings, you may need a Search and Rescue Service to get you out.
This may all be irrelevant if public health restrictions limit visitor numbers (and far fewer people are expected to travel to Vienna in late 2020 anyway).
(Look for benches in the illuminated park adjoining the Christkindlmarkt)
First off, avoid the crowds (see above). But if you need to be able to sit down, it gets a little trickier – the markets are generally standing room only.
Curiously, the busiest market may be your friend, here. The park surrounding the main Christkindlmarkt has benches to sit on and munch your toffee apples.
The streets of the Spittelberg market burst with bars and restaurants, so you can escape easily (the downside is the market alleyways are quite narrow). A handful of restaurants also ring the large courtyard location of the Altes AKH, which is also rich in benches.
Hate Christmas markets?
If you develop a sudden allergy to pine needles or advent choirs, then pop into Winter at the MQ: not a wooden stall in sight, nor any mention of Christmas at all in fact.
Finally, let me again stress that the quality of the main markets ranges from good to excellent – you really can’t make a mistake. Whichever ones you do visit, be prepared to enjoy the experience.