Vienna is hugely popular for a Christmas trip. But what should you do when you’re there? Here are my top recommendations…
NB: Events, markets, etc. will continue to be subject to public health restrictions in late 2020 (and possibly beyond) so be prepared for changes. Check with official sites.
1. Take a photo at Belvedere
This is missed by most people, but an absolute must.
The Upper Belvedere Palace has a small lake in front of it. In the evening, when the sky turns twilight blue, it’s a beautiful place to take a glorious photo of the building, the Christmas market, the lights, and the reflections in the water.
I got there after dark, but you get the picture:
Last year, they added a large Christmas tree made entirely of sledges, which added a red highlight to the very centre of the photo opportunity.
2. Visit a Christmas market
This is why most people visit in the first place. Vienna’s numerous Christmas markets open from mid- to late November and make you feel like the world is a better place than news broadcasts might suggest.
It’s like being wrapped in a cosy blanket before a roaring fireplace, with a steaming mug of something warm and the company of good friends. There are plenty of markets to try, but you’ll find your way to the best if you follow this advice.
Warning: if you’re on a diet, you may want to stay away. The typical market has made “culinary temptation” an art form. Imagine the sugar fairy got loose, made a pact with the chocolate fairy, then abandoned all reason and accountability.
3. Drink Weihnachtspunsch
A fine idea for that steaming mug of something warm is Weihnachtspunsch (Christmas punch): it comes in dozens of flavours and keeps the chill at bay on a cold winter’s evening. Plenty of non-alcoholic options exist, too.
The markets serve their punch in collectable mugs, and each market normally has its own unique design. You pay a deposit when you order, so you can keep the mug and lose the deposit (which is perfectly fine behaviour). Or even just buy the mugs separately. Many visitors take them home as souvenirs.
4. Listen to an advent concert
Vienna fills with the sound of Advent concerts in December, including special “Strauss and Mozart” Christmas performances. I list many of the concert highlights here.
5. View the lights on the Graben and Kärntner Straße
Vienna’s Christmas lights glitter without being glitzy, with thousands of crystals and giant chandeliers bringing an imperial ballroom atmosphere to the main pedestrianized areas in the center.
Take a walk in the evening, starting from the State Opera House building, moving down Kärntner Straße to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, then along the Graben and up Kohlmarkt to the Hofburg Palace.
6. Take an evening trip around the Ring
The lights don’t end there: parks, five-star hotels, luxury stores, and at least two Christmas markets flank the wide Ring boulevard that encircles the old city.
7. Walk through the Rathauspark
One of the Christmas markets along the Ring is the famous Christkindlmarkt on the Rathausplatz (the square in front of town hall). Half the city seems to congregate there in the evening. The small surrounding park makes a delightful evening walk, too, with its hidden displays, nativity scenes, lighted trees, and illuminated ice skating trails.
8. Visit a roast chestnut stand
Every market has one. And just about every major street corner in winter, too: a “Maronistand” selling potato-based snacks and roast chestnuts.
It’s a Christmas experience shared with generations before you. You can imagine medieval children blowing on their fingers to cool them down after picking open a piping hot chestnut. Follow in their footsteps (but with better hygiene).
9. Visit the nativity scenes in St. Peter’s Church
Peterskirche (St. Peter’s church) is a tumult of decorative Baroque opulence with barely a brick that hasn’t been touched by an artist’s or sculptor’s hand.
Inside is quite beautiful and even more atmospheric during Advent when it usually hosts an exhibition of nativity scenes.
10. Enjoy a sausage
You can eat a sausage at one of Vienna’s many sausage stands any time of year. But they come into their own in winter.
When the night chill threatens to bite and you’re tired from seeing the sights and gaping at the lights, then fill up with a tasty
cholesterol stick Käsekrainer or Bratwurst. It’s a true Viennese experience.
So there you have it. For an in-depth look at Vienna at Christmas, check out my full guide here.