The Jelinek has authentic stamped all over it. A coffee house like a 1950s car that’s still used for trips down the shopping centre – worn but familiar…and gets the job done.
- Friendly environment, comfortable in its somewhat world-weary decor
- No veneer of polished conformity
- Homemade cakes (big plus point)
- Home to those from literature and the arts
- Lovely to relax in, but not for those looking for a pristine time capsule
- See also:
A local review
(A beacon of authenticity)
The front entrance to Café Jelinek feels like you’re about to walk into a rundown jazz club. But the first thing to greet you inside is a warm, free-standing wood-fuelled stove that sets the tone for the whole Jelinek experience.
Whereby I doubt anybody there has ever considered the idea of offering an “experience”. Café Jelinek is what it is: a coffee house that screams (or whispers) authenticity at you.
This genuineness begins with the decor: the insides haven’t enjoyed a pristine makeover or historically-accurate refurbishment, though the curtains and upholstery looked new on my visit.
The hardwood floor bears the scrapes of a thousand tired feet, the wooden chairs caressed by a myriad of caffeine-fuelled hands, the walls faded under a barrage of debate and discussion.
Above our table on my last visit, a light fitting even had a bulb missing, with another bulb flickering indecisively.
The Jelinek wears the scars of history proudly like a battle-hardened veteran.
The authenticity continues with the staff, who didn’t seem as if they’re trying to conform to some expected model or stereotype. They’re just trying to make sure you have what you need with the minimum of fuss.
And the clientele is as authentic as they come, too.
(Look for the homemade cakes inside)
Before I knew the Jelinek counted as one of Vienna’s best coffee houses, I’d already been there twice. Once for a business breakfast meeting, once for coffee with friends from out of town.
This is not the domain of visitors, but a local “hotspot”, with a youthful flavour.
Cafe Jelinek enjoys a reputation as a meeting place for those interested in the spoken and written word, its walls full of signed photos from the Austrian theatre, literature and cabaret scene.
The location’s far enough away from the busy Mariahilfer Straße to enjoy a little splendid isolation. But not far enough away to deter the Viennese from dropping in after a hard day shopping. So on Saturdays and before Christmas, for example, it can get very busy.
And then there’s the coffee and food. Also authentic.
The cakes were not the works of art you might find in a Café Central, but looked (and are, I believe) distinctly homemade. And the rolls with my breakfast were still warm from the oven.
Incidentally, the breakfast menu seems to be valid for the whole day. A previous edition of the Jelinek website explained it thus, “The early bird can go take a running jump” (the polite translation).
There is no pretense here. It’s the real deal.
Incidentally, the street (Otto-Bauer-Gasse) has been upgraded with a more genteel traffic concept, and more restaurants, cafés and similar have moved in. Try, for example, the two delicious French-style bakery / patisserie outlets at No.2 (Peti Pari) and No.21 (L’Amour du Pain).
(Part of Otto-Bauer-Gasse looking in the direction of Mariahilfer Straße around 1902. Things have changed since; August Stauda (Photographer); Wien Museum Inv.-Nr. 27363; excerpt reproduced with permission under the terms of the CC0 licence)
How to get to Café Jelinek
Unlike many of its colleagues, Café Jelinek hides away down a side street. But like anywhere fairly central in Vienna, it has a subway stop nearby. Two in fact.
Subway: Take the U3 and get off at Neubaugasse or Zieglergasse, then it’s a 4-6 minute walk to the coffee house
Tram/bus: The 13A, 14A and 57A buses should stop nearby (Esterházygasse)
Address: Otto-Bauer-Gasse 5, 1060 Vienna | Website