So no tradition where we hang up goat ears or an inflated pig bladder to ensure the Christkind brings the right gifts (perhaps this is where I’ve been going wrong).
But there are some differences to the typical anglo-American decorations we’re all familiar with from home or Hollywood.
In general, there’s less plastic and more glass, wood, straw and other natural materials (with the exception of strings and strings of LED lights). You can get a broad feel for the decoration culture from the city’s own Christmas lights and the wares sold at the Christmas markets.
Coming from the UK, the decorations strike me as more subtle and Victorianesque (is that a word?), though you will still find dancing reindeer and a fluorescent Santa ho-ho-hoing his way through the starry Vienna night if you look hard enough.
Shopping tip: Vienna’s department stores usually have a Christmas bazaar through the Advent period. They often stay open immediately after the Christmas public holidays, selling decorations at half price. A good time to stock up for next year.
Here are three decorating traditions that were relatively new to me:
Adventkranz (Advent wreath)
This is a tabletop decoration featuring four candles.
A metal or straw frame wrapped tightly in spruce or other twigs forms the basic wreath, and the remaining decoration is a question of your own style and imagination. In our home, for example, we use natural materials like nuts, cinnamon sticks, pine cones and mistletoe.
Traditionally, the first candle is lit on the first Sunday in Advent. Another candle joins it at each of the subsequent Advent Sundays, so by the fourth Sunday all four candles are burning away.
Barbarazweig (St. Barbara’s twig)
Legend has it that on her way to imprisonment and eventual execution, the catholic saint Barbara caught her clothes in a roadside fruit tree, breaking off a twig.
She took the twig with her to prison where it flowered on the day her death sentence was passed.
On St. Barbara’s Day (December 4th), the Viennese put long twigs from a flowering tree – usually cherry or apple – in water in a warm location, then sit back and wait for the buds to burst into flower. They often decorate the twigs with small baubles, ribbons and similar.
This tradition dates back to at least the 13th century. It is said that young ladies can put several twigs in a vase, give each the name of a suitor and the first to bloom is “the one”. I guess it’s an alternative to online dating.
Baumkerzen (tree candles)
Health and safety concerns have more or less killed this tradition in many countries, but not in Austria.
As part of the main Christmas celebrations on December 24th, the tree is lit up with real wax candles in its branches and the family gathers round to sing carols and other songs (then hastily snuff out the candles before the worst happens).
The authorities issue regular warnings and advice about fire-related Christmas tree incidents, but there is no sign that this tradition will end soon.