A lot of Viennese food likes to find an association with the grander aspects of Austrian history. Particularly, for some reason, the desserts. And so it is with Kaiserschmarrn (often spelled Kaiserschmarren).
- Shredded pancake with plum jam
- A favourite dish of Emperor Franz Joseph
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What is it?
(Resistance is futile)
Kaiserschmarren is a somewhat rustic-sounding word to describe a rather sweet and pleasant pancake-like dish with a strong Imperial connection.
Inevitably in our complicated world, we have numerous variations, but the classic version of the dish is essentially a thick pancake that’s chopped into pieces, topped with icing sugar, and served with plum compote. Raisins commonly appear in the mix.
You find it on many local restaurant menus. Here’s a fairly traditional version. And here’s celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck’s more sophisticated version with strawberries.
Various stories surround the origins of the dish, all of which relate to the name.
Kaiser is German for Emperor and Schmarrn is a colloquial expression for a mess or nonsense, often uttered in exasperation at some unfortunate situation.
Ironically, I tend to make a Schmarrn of making Kaiserschmarren.
(The famous Demel Café-Konditorei in Vienna’s centre offers takeaway Kaiserschmarrn)
Anyway, a common tale is that Emperor Franz Joseph was out and about in the Alps and dropped into a farmhouse feeling a bit peckish…much to the surprise (and consternation) of the farmer.
The presence of His Imperial Majesty sent the household into a bit of a panic.
The farmer attempted to create a luxurious pancake for his guest but made a mess of it in his nervousness. So he applied a little Alpine cunning to save the day, shredding the remains of the would-be pancake, slapping some plum jam over it, and presenting it as the finished article.
The Emperor loved it.
And so a dish, legend, and name were born.
Whatever the truth of the matter, culinary historians largely agree that Kaiserschmarren does date back to at least the days of Franz Joseph (and much earlier in heartier versions for rural workers), even if the Kaiser part of the name probably stems from some other meaning.
And, if I recall correctly, the Kaiser did indeed have a genuine affection for the dish.
Besides, we should never let the truth get in the way of a good story.
All that really matters is that Kaiserschmarren makes another fine addition to your choice of desserts when in Vienna.